Three hulking 20,000-square-foot barns sit off a county road just east of Peterborough. They look like chicken barns—in fact, they used to be chicken barns—but instead, there are 100 million crickets inside, hatching, feeding, mating and otherwise going about their six-week lives. At Entomo Farms, North America’s largest human-grade cricket farm and the official cricket supplier for Loblaws, it sounds like a summer’s night every day of the year.